![]() ![]() For another, it lets you preview the effect of the image stabilizer. For one, its flip-and-twist LCD makes Live View useful in situations where a fixed LCD can't cut it (such as this shot). Though it still requires a mirror flip-up for prefocus like most of its competitors, which can slow Live View shooting considerably, the E-3 provides a couple of helpful features. In addition to the viewfinder, Olympus includes Live View mode-a feature it pioneered in conjunction with Panasonic-for framing via the LCD. On the other hand, when operating at ISO 2,000 or higher, the display blinks continuously, which can get quite annoying. Combined with the 4:3 aspect ratio native to the Four Thirds standard of the sensor and lenses (for a 2x focal-length multiplier) and its big, comfortable eyecup, the viewfinder provides the same shooting feel as a far more expensive full-frame camera. The viewfinder, too, is great: large with 1.1x magnification and 100 percent scene coverage. When you cycle through each of the direct-access options, they appear in the viewfinder readout-even options that don't normally appear there, such as white balance or image stabilization mode-which is a very nice touch. The control panel doesn't rotate when shooting vertically, however, the way it does on Sony's dSLRs. If you want, you can bypass most of them by using the so-called Super Control Panel, an increasingly popular interface for adjusting most shooting settings from a single screen. (For more details on the body design, see the E-3 slide show.) While shooting, the layout feels logical enough, though some of the multibutton-plus-dial combos feel a tad old-fashioned. Like all of its competitors, the E-3 supplies the requisite front and back dials, status LCD, and plethora of direct-access controls. It's quite comfortable to hold, with a deep rubber grip. At a shade less than 2 pounds, the body weighs about as much as its midrange dSLR classmates, with similar dimensions as well. The magnesium-alloy body is as solidly made as ever, and now it's dust-, weather- and splash-proof, as well. If anyone has any more tips of hints on getting the best out of Olympus. I figured the ORF>TIFF step would also be of interest to Lightroom users so I'd share it. I'm aware that there are more bits in a TIFF than a JPG so it seems sensible that it's a better place to begin when editing. I've just had a play with OV3, exporting to TIFF with neutral settings, then loading in GIMP editing and exporting as JPG and it does seem to give you more to play with.Īs a two step for processing an image it's not too painful and I could even batch process TIFFs from OV3 to play with later. ![]() Then I came across this video which relates to earlier versions of Olympus Viewer 2 and Lightroom 4 and shows how much more detail OV2 could extract from the same ORF file. Googling Olympus Viewer doesn't give a lot of help, mostly people suggesting that you abandon it and use Adobe Lightroom I've tried editing the ORF files from my E-M10 and E-PL5 in Olympus Viewer 3 and struggled - partly because the interface is complicated, the help is pretty minimal and also because it's s o s l o w. I've fairly recently moved to shooting JPG+RAW having previously shot JPG (no editing) then JPG with some post processing in GIMP. ![]()
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